<![CDATA[Sarah Bond Travel Writer - Travel Insights Blog]]>

<![CDATA[Sarah Bond Travel Writer - Travel Insights Blog]]>Fri, 24 May 2013 22:57:54 -0800Weebly<![CDATA[There is More to Wanaka than Wild Backcountry]]>Sun, 20 May 2012 11:17:11 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/05/there-is-more-to-wanaka-than-wild-backcountry.html

Archery at 'Have a Shot' Wanaka

If you don’t feel like heading into the hills, or sticking your snout in a latte in town, there are lots of activities around Wanaka worth investigating. Geoff and I discovered that thanks to some inspired entrepreneurs there is way more to Wanaka than stunning scenery.

We started our day at Have a Shot. I wanted to show off my archery instructing skills and Geoff felt like going a little aristocratic with the clay pigeon shooting. Pride comes before a fall I guess, because after minimal training Geoff outshot me, and he was a dab hand at deconstructing clay pigeons!

Both of us had visited the Warbirds & Wheels Museum, which was created by this visionary Tim Wallace, so the Transport and Toy Museum was our next stop. Much like sorting through an Op Shop, the Higglety Pigglety displays had some real gems hidden in dusty corners. Tin wind-up toys, movie and TV memorabilia and over thirty fire engines were hidden amongst the porcelain dolls, teddy bears, pedal cars and seven hundred motor vehicles.

Next was a quick stop at Wanaka Wastebusters, Wanaka’s official home of all things recycled. I love trawling through the bookshelves which illustrate that Wanaka's locals have some highbrow reading habits. Geoff always hunts for 'must have' preloved tools and gadgets most of which are destined to gather dust in our garage at home.

Our last indoor adventure was at Stuart Landsborough's Puzzling World. I was a little spooked by the ‘Hall of Following Faces’ and felt like Alice in Wonderland in the Ames Room. It was like I had nibbled on the “Eat Me” big and little pills as this carefully constructed room creates a giant and miniature optical illusion.

The Puzzling World cafe served up a mug of my favourite drug, and while I enjoyed my caffeine fix Geoff got stuck into a collection of puzzles. Time seemed to fold in on itself and the next thing we knew we were being politely asked to leave, as it was time to close up.

With our legs well rested, we were definitely ready to go back to the wilderness after spending the day attempting to shoot things, finding second hand books, discovering old toys and enjoying mind bending optical illusions. Which just goes to show there really is way more to Wanaka than rugged backcountry.

Puzzling World Wanaka

Old School Groomer at the Toy and Transport Museum

Looking up towards Treble Cone. Wanaka

]]><![CDATA[Falling Water in the Catlins]]>Sun, 13 May 2012 08:27:16 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/05/falling-water-in-the-catlins.html

Matai Falls: The Catlins

Most visitors to the Catlins explore the rugged coastline with its rocky outcrops, caves, lighthouses and wild critters. On our second day in this forgotten corner of New Zealand, Geoff and I decided to turn away from salty flavoured activities and head inland to hunt for waterfalls. Technically, there are over 70 waterfalls along the Catlins coast and we decided to visit the big three: Purakaunui Falls, Matai Falls and McLean Falls.

Purakaunui Falls
We turned off the main highway at the south end of the Catlins River Bridge and soon found the Purakanui Falls car park. A ten minute stroll through the forest leads you to this watery wonder which is stacked like a three-tiered wedding cake.

Being close to Owaka, the main settlement in the Catlins, Purakanui is probably the best-known waterfall in the area. Visiting just before mid-day when the sun shines through the trees and then enjoying the picnic area by the car park is highly recommended.

Matai Falls
Back on SH96 we kept heading south towards Table Hill Scenic Reserve and Matai Falls. This time, a twenty-minute walk through regenerating forest led us to a wooden viewing platform. The waterfall cascades down a verdant wall of moss-covered rocks and presents a visually meditative experience.

Always up for an extra challenge, we scrambled up the muddy bank and took a peak at Horseshoe Falls. The extra grovel was worth it, but it was difficult to get a good photograph of the falls as they are engulfed by forest. Rather like a passport stamp, I ended up with a muddy backside on my way down as proof of the adventure.

McLean Falls
McLean Falls is over 22 metres tall and is definitely my favourite waterfall in the Catlins. Kudos to the Kings High School students and associates who helped build the track in the late 1990’s. The walk in is a little steeper than the access to the other two waterfalls and I would recommend wearing shoes with good tread.

When you come out onto the rocky terrace at the bottom of the falls, the constant flow of water is mesmerising. In warmer weather, you can even swim in the pool at the bottom of the main falls; however, on the day we visited staying dry seemed like a better option.

Back at our cabin, I was surprised at how sleepy I was after the fresh air laden with fine mist from three of New Zealand’s most stunning waterfalls...Just another great day out in the Catlins.

Purakaunui Falls: Catlins

McLean Falls: The Catlins

]]><![CDATA[Wandering up the Greenstone Valley]]>Fri, 04 May 2012 05:16:19 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/05/wandering-up-the-greenstone-valley.html

Greenstone River - Glenorchy NZ

The weekend family trip to the new Greenstone hut reminded me that tramping is not always about scaling peaks or stomping long tracks. Sometimes, moving at a slower pace, seeing the ‘wanderlust’ on ‘newbies’ faces and hanging out with some ‘younguns’ can be an experience in itself.

Jill and Ray were our ‘Camp Mum and Dad’ for the weekend and somehow they kept all 17 trampers relatively organised. Having taken the van to the trailhead on Friday night and pitched our tents, on Saturday morning we walked along the shores of Lake Wakatipu and headed inland towards Lake Rere.

On the way to the lake, I missed a real Kodak moment - young Sarah reached out and held her Dad’s hand as they hiked through the beech forest. With Andrew being over 6ft and Sarah almost half his size it was a real “Awwwwhhhh” moment. Young Sarah, Dave and young Dillon all proved that Gen Y’s (or is it Gen Z) can be competent trampers and good company on the track.

I enjoyed chatting with Tina, Raewyn, Alan and Lindsay as we hiked onwards, and when we could keep up with them, Kim and Jeremy kept the group entertained. As did ‘older’ Dillon and Rebecca when they worked out they had forgotten their hummus and cheese at the lunch stop.

Highlights along the way were: seeing the ranges reflected in Lake Rere, checking out the remains of a mammoth landslide and peering into a sculptured river canyon just below the hut. Depending on whom you talk to the Greenstone Valley was named either because it was a Greenstone trading route for early Maori, or because of the river’s iridescent green water.

The new 20-bunk Greenstone hut really is Gucci, with double glazed windows, ample bench and seating space and a very productive fire. Some of the group chose to pitch their tents since they had carried them in and the rest of us found a temporary home in one of the two bunkrooms.

The only disappointing thing about this hut was the ‘service with a snarl’ Hut Warden. I hope he was just having a bad day at the office; otherwise he could be the recipient of “DOC’s all time grumpiest Hut Warden” award.

If the hut was Gucci, dinner was gourmet. I was amazed at the meals that different groups managed to produce using a burner and some pots. My personal favourite, however, was Lucy’s homemade chutney that appeared during pre-dinner snacks.

We took the direct route out on Sunday, and people broke into smaller groups. Some taking the time to walk the riverbed and check out the Slip Flat bivvy. The drive home was rather uneventful; once again, we sang along to Ray’s 80’s rock anthems and for something a little different we had a special reading of everyone’s star signs.

Just another fabulous weekend out with the OTMC proving that good company in the backcountry is a far better proposition than staying in town. Thanks again to Ray and Jill for leading the trip and getting us there and back in one piece.

Shelter at the Greenstone Valley road end.

Lake Rere

Greenstone Hut

]]><![CDATA[Queenstown Walks - Mt Crichton Walkway and Sam Summers Hut]]>Sun, 29 Apr 2012 22:11:16 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/04/queenstown-walks-sam-summers-hut-the-mt-crichton-walkway.html

Shauna @ Sam Summers Hut

Queenstown, in Central Otago, has just over 27,500 permanent residents and accommodates an astounding 1.9 million visitors every year. Known for its commercially orientated tourism industry, on the surface, it seems that the town has been designed for adrenalin thrill seekers, snow enthusiasts, and wine connoisseurs. However, there is a lot more to Queenstown than bungy jumping, snow sports and a 24/7 nightlife.

Ten kilometres along the Glenorchy Road is the start of the Mt Crichton walkway. I went on an adventure Shauna and Gareth Roughley of Roughley Originals Photography and Leah of Leah Travels. We discovered that you can stroll past the remnants of a Chinese gold mining village, wander through a sluiced canyon, and after 45 minutes walking through the forest, explore a fully restored gold miners hut.

Sam Summers and his two brother’s searched for gold in the area during the 1930’s. The brothers built this three-bunk hut with stones from the riverbed, which they plastered together with wattle and daub. The tin roof was packed in, and the furniture was crafted from trees and sacking. Today, DOC has kindly added informative interpretation panels and a long drop toilet, so you can investigate the mining relics and even stay in the hut over night.

Beyond the hut, you can link up with the Lake Dispute walkway then head back to the car park. Back in Queenstown, to finish off your afternoon adventure, I highly recommend a burger from Fergburger or a pizza from The Cow.

Inside Sam Summers Hut - Mt Crichton Walkway Queenstown

Mining Relics: Sam Summers Hut Mt Mt Crichton Walkway - Queenstown

]]><![CDATA[I Love Mountain Biking in Dunedin]]>Sun, 22 Apr 2012 21:56:40 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/04/i-love-mountain-biking-in-dunedin.html

AOK Social Riders at Taiaroa Head

Queenstown and Central Otago tend to steal the limelight when it comes to mountain biking in the South Island. Yet, over the last five years, there has been a quiet revolution in Dunedin. A new track network has stretched out across the city landscape and there are now rides for all abilities, from tough nut dirt jumpers to weekend cruisers.

Thanks to Mountain Biking Otago, by the end of 2009, a zigzag track, complete with rock walls and sections of boardwalk snaked up above Nichols Creek through native bush. And, the beginner tracks and carpark at Waikari Creek had begun to take shape.

The Waikari Creek tracks are now shingled, and sheltered from the weather. Beginners, including small children on mini bikes, can roll around the Redwood Loop while intermediates riders can take on Weir Two, Slytherin, and a new trail that is tentatively named ‘The Screamer’.

With the completion of the ‘Big Easy’ climbing track in 2011, Signal Hill is no longer the exclusive domain of downhillers, dirt jumpers and 4X riders. Cross country riders wanting to go on an off road adventure can also take on "The Hill".

The AOK Social Riders are officially my favourite part of the Dunedin mountain bike scene. Every Saturday afternoon, up to 60 riders meet and explore back roads, forests and mountain bike tracks around Dunedin. The rides are free, everyone is welcome and the chat over refreshments at a café or bar afterwards is an essential part of the afternoon.

You can almost guarantee, that if I'm not heading out on a hike, next Saturday afternoon I'll be cranking the pedals AOK riders and exploring another part of Dunedin.

AOK Social Riders At Papanui Inlet

]]><![CDATA[What's Up With Rodeo? - An Adventure at Outram]]>Thu, 22 Mar 2012 20:51:07 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/03/whats-up-with-rodeo-an-adventure-at-outram.html

Castle Dent - Outram Rodeo

Eight seconds is a long time. The bronc bucks, hooves of the ground and the cowboy holds on tight. When the rider ploughs into the dirt the pick-up riders move in quickly and it is all over.

Sitting with friends on the embankment at Outram, I realise that this city girl is hooked on rodeo. Just mentioning the word ‘rodeo’ sparks emotionally charged conversation. Some see it as a throwback to an Americanised Wild West; animal activists believe it is cruel and enthusiasts say it is a physically demanding sport for skilled riders.

In North America rodeo means big business, riders can earn college scholarships and thousands of dollars in prize money. It is the official state sport in Wyoming, South Dakota, and Texas. In Canada, Alberta is the home of rodeo and 2012 marks the 100th Anniversary of the Calgary Stampede. Over a million people visited the event in 2011 and the winning riders took home $80,000 in prize money. Even the Stampede is small compared to the three-week Livestock Show and Rodeo in Houston Texas.

In New Zealand, the Lawrence Rodeo Club (LRC) is hosting the 2012 National Rodeo Finals. On March 23rd and 24th, the country’s top eight riders in each discipline will compete for $5,000 prize money per event, a belt buckle and a saddle – the rodeo equivalent of an Olympic gold medal. There are thirty rodeo’s on the national circuit and riders need to compete all season to earn enough money to qualify for the finals.

Roughstock riders draw the name of an animal from a hat and take on a bull or a horse. They earn points based on how well they ride and how the animal bucks. In the barrel races, steer wrestling and roping events, competitors bring their own horses and the clock decides the winner.

Having learnt a little more about rodeo, I am still hooked on this very Western event. In March, I will be sitting on the embankment with the rest of the Lawrence community hopefully watching a local riders win the national titles!

Barrel Riding: Outram Rodeo

Rope and Tie - Outram Rodeo

]]><![CDATA[The Kepler Challange - A Great Walk & an Epic Race]]>Sun, 12 Feb 2012 20:59:46 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/02/the-kepler-challange-an-great-walk-an-epic-race.html

Sarah Bond - Mt Luxmore

The Kepler Track is a true circuit and the start is within walking distance from Te Anau township. Most people take three or four days to do walk the track and make the most of Gucci facilities at Luxmore Hut, Iris Burn and Moturau hut.

I wondered if there was some irony in the name as Johannes Kepler, a 17th Century German astronomer discovered that planets travel in an elliptical orbit. Turns out, it was James McKerrow - an early surveyor, who named the Kepler range in 1862, long before the track was built.

In 2011, the Asics Kepler Challenge was a huge success and 2012 is the races 25th Birthday. Managed with military precision and the help of over 200 volunteers the event had a true community feel. A small village of tents – including a temporary home for the NZ Army Territorial’s, St John Ambulance and a coffee shop – pops up over night.

In 2011, Vajin Armstrong ran across the finish with Zen-like calm, completing the 60 kilometre run in 5.01.54 seconds and Victoria Beck came in at 5.51.28. While Stuart Doyle of Canberra won the Luxmore Grunt (up to Luxmore Hut and back) in 2:04:17, and Jess Simpson of Wanaka won the Woman’s Grunt in 2:18:39.

I caught up with Steve Norris, the Chairmen of the Race Committee and owner of Trips and Tramps Fiordland before I left Te Anau. He and his team are planning for the Asics Kepler Challenge 25th Anniversary celebrations this year. According to Norris, the hardest part of the Challenge is getting registered. In 2011, the 450 places were booked out in less than seven minutes. Norris says “I received my first irate phone call at 6.45am from a “would be” competitor, in Germany, who had missed out.”

The moral of the story? If you want to enter this year’s Challenge or Grunt, on the first Saturday in July at 6.30am (NZ time) you need to be on line early to get registered. If you decide that wandering the track like a mere mortal, check out the Department of Conservation website and remember that even walkers need to book months in advance!

Luxmore Hut

Vajin Armstrong

]]><![CDATA[The prize for ‘Cheapest’ car hire – Auckland Airport goes too.....]]>Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:41:04 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2012/01/the-prize-for-cheapest-car-hire-auckland-airport-goes-too.html

Toyota Vitz

After exhaustive online research, Rental Cars New Zealand won the prize for cheapest car hire –Auckland Airport. I’ve always found hiring a rental car a tricky proposition and when you have a family wedding to go to you need to get a car that goes. However, I’d rather spend my money on holiday experiences and a higher standard of accommodation than a vehicle. All I want is a car that is safe and can get me where I need to go, without the hidden costs.

The ‘not quite the whole truth’ statements on most car rental websites really irritate me, and it’s the fine print that stops claims for false advertising. My favourite is "hire a car from $22 a day"...as long as you hire the vehicle for a month. I was relieved to discover that Rental Cars New Zealand actually deliver on their promises and have the cheapest vehicles for hire.

A mini-van with a bright orange logo picked us up at the Auckland Domestic terminal and drove us to the Rental Cars NZ base. Here, we met our zippy 2000 Toyota Vitz, five-door hatchback. Geoff, being a Series 2 Land Rover man made a disparaging comment about our ‘washing machine on wheels’. However, after circumnavigating Auckland three times, he was forced to eat his words when the Vitz only cost $30 to fill up.

On our return, we saw cars of all sizes, mini-vans and four-wheel drives, out back being prepared for hire. If we were heading out on a longer journey, next time we will upgrade to a bigger vehicle, but for around town the Vitz was perfect. One thing is certain, for car hire - Auckland airport, Rental Cars New Zealand is our preferred choice.

]]><![CDATA[The Prize for Best View of Tekapo goes too...]]>Fri, 23 Dec 2011 03:19:13 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2011/12/the-prize-for-best-view-of-tekapo-goes-too.html

Lake Alexandrina & Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo is the largest of the three lakes in McKenzie Basin. It’s BIG blue sky country, where rolling plains of tussock smudge into the eastern horizon, and towards the West the Southern Alps bisect the landscape.

Geoff and I got to hide away for the weekend at a fishing crib on the edge of Lake Alexandrina, about 15 minutes drive from Tekapo town centre. We set ourselves a challenge to explore the area and find the best view.

Sarah’s Favourite. The view from the window on my Air Safaris – Grand Traverse flightseeing tour. Flying around the Southern Alps and seeing Australasia's tallest peaks is a life affirming experience. I've flown the "Grand Traverse' with Air Safaris in Franz Josef, and I was amazed at how different the trip out of Tekapo is.

The Godley Valley looked stunning as we flew over, although it can be like Siberia in winter. Aoraki Mt Cook and Mt Tasman were heart stoppingly crisp, just outside my window. While looking down the Franz Josef Glacier, to my old village made me homesick for the Coast.

Geoff’s Favourite. The view from Mt John Observatory was
Geoff’s favourite place and next time we visit we are definitely doing the Earth & Sky tour. Geoff is secretly a bit of a space nut. We have a book on Space Dynamics on the bookshelf at home and he has been to Cape Canaveral to see a rocket launch.

The view of Lake Tekapo on a cloudless day was amazing and the idea of viewing stars, free from light pollution, even more appealing!

2nd =. Alpine Hot Springs. I think that the Alpine Hot Springs have the best soaking views in New Zealand. Set on the edge of Lake Tekapo, the three pools surrounded by landscaped tussock and boulders are the perfect place to end a days adventuring. I also enjoyed the European style cedar sauna and white tiled steam room. Geoff agreed with my assessment and we soaked until we were well marinated and slept like the dead that night.

Alpine Hot Springs

Mt John Observatory

Geoff & Mt John Observatory

]]><![CDATA[Wondering about Waitangi - Bay of Islands]]>Thu, 17 Nov 2011 21:25:06 GMThttp://www.sarahbondtravelwriter.info/1/post/2011/11/wondering-about-waitangi-bay-of-islands.html

Waka at Waitangi

I revisited the Treaty of Waitangi grounds with some trepidation as I was left feeling underwhelmed after my visit in 2002. This visit was infinitely better. I discovered that everyone with a New Zealand drivers licence can explore the grounds for free. The $18 guided tour around the Treaty grounds with Dennise Robinson was my favourite Bay of Islands tour.

Robinson has a gentle way of bringing history to life. Her idea that the Treaty of Waitangi is like a marriage with all parties needing to keep working at it makes perfect sense. The vision of the giant waka filled with 150 warriors, paddling into Hobson’s Bay in 1940 to celebrate the centenary of the Treaty signing made me wish that I had been there.

A flag pole marks where the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi occurred visitors can explore both the Treaty House and wharenui (meeting house). Robinson brought meaning to the carvings and tukutuku panels inside the meeting house and sang a waiata. At that moment, the hairs on the back of my neck quivered. I felt proud to call myself a “Kiwi”.

Bushfire sunrise at Waitangi

Our founding document - The Treaty of Waitangi

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