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View from Russell wharf
A summer seaside town bulging with yachties, with a church that has authentic bullet holes in its weatherboards was how I remembered Russell. The next morning I caught the car ferry and went to re-acquaint myself. 

The Māori name Kororekera reflects a wounded chief’s passion for healing soup made from “sweet” blue penguins, and the town with its bittersweet history is undeniably worth visiting.In the early 19th century sailors, traders and escaped convicts visited the town to resupply their ships and enjoy some drunken recreation. John Bidwell a botanist and world traveller at the time described it as ‘The Hell Hole of the Pacific’ was well earned.